The long and winding road
Calabria, Italy All season we had been trying to see more of Italy’s Calabria region. With a wild mountain...
Part of selecting Fano, Italy as the winter marina for Berkeley East was so we could travel in the nearby region of Emilia-Romagna, famous for its cheese, ham and balsamic vinegar. We love cheese! And we love ham, so we toured the area surrounding the cities of Modena and Parma where Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, and Aceto Balsamico are made.
Our Italian guide, Antonio, told us that this combination of foods is actually a healthy diet, as Parmigiano-Reggiano is good for the digestion, Aceto Balsamico is historically used to cure ailments, and Parma ham is, well, just plain tasty.
First stop was a small, family-owned cheese factory that has been making Parmigiano-Reggiano for generations. This unique cheese, produced exclusively in this area, is subject to strict controls to ensure high quality and the presence of special characteristics found only in Parmigiano-Reggiano. Every day, including Christmas and New Years, the process begins to create the huge wheels of cheese that must aged for a minimum of 12 months. It was very interesting to watch, they even cut the cheese. But tasting the cheese at different ages was definitely the highlight of the tour.
Next was a visit to learn about the making of Parma Ham (Prosciutto di Parma). The history and region of Parma Ham production are what set it apart from other prosciuttos in the world. Since Roman times, this geographically protected food became world renowned for its delicate and sweet flavor. Prosciutto di Parma can only be produced in the countryside surrounding the city of Parma, from the hind legs of specially selected heritage breed pigs raised in 11 regions of Italy. It is a long and painstaking process; by law Parma Ham must be cured for at least one year and some are aged for as much as three years. Again, the tasting was excellent.
Our final stop on our food tour was to taste Aceto Balsamico. Made in hamlets around the historic town of Modena, its origin dates back to the 17° century, and is nothing like the balsamic vinegars we have tasted before. Traditional Balsamic of Modena ages for decades (a minimum of 12 years) in a series of barrels which get smaller and smaller in size. The final product is a rich, velvety elixir that can enhance everything from cheese to ice cream. It is very special taste with a special price tag to match.
Modena is an ancient city in the heart of the Emilia-Romagna Region, now a Unesco World Heritage site, and birthplace of the operatic tenor Luciano Pavarotti and founder of Ferrari motor, Enzo Ferrari.
The town of Parma is much more than its famous delicacies of Parma ham and Parmesan cheese, this riverside city has a wealth of ornate churches, monasteries, and museums.
Another delicacy from the region on our food tour – horse tartare.
Modena is home to the second best restaurant in the world, with a three-month waitlist, so we went to its excellent little cousin (run by the same renown chef) where they served us gourmet hamburgers in a box!
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I can attest to the amazingness of this balsamic. Thank you!! Thank you!!!
Mmm! Delicious history lesson with my breakfast this morning! I can experience it vicariously. I’m always amazed at the way you write. Thanks! Lots of Love, Aunt Judy