Sailing into spring

Gaeta, Italy

We tolerate North Carolina winters (even enjoy the occasional dusting of snow) partially because we love the change of seasons, especially the awakening of spring after a long, frosty spell. Every day is new with birds, blossoms, flowers, leaves, grasses, sunshine and warmth. The lake and the outdoors call to us to come out and play. The plants and trees are bursting to life, begging for our attention. And we are prepping to go back to Berkeley East: planning, purchasing and packing (four 60-pound duffle bags, one inflatable paddle board, four carryon bags). Boat gear and shoes are delivered daily, right up to our departure. It is a very hectic time.

Unfortunately (like the weather around much of the globe), Lake Norman was cold, wet and windy this April. We made the best of it, capturing moments of spring with the occasional dinner outside, enjoying a calm evening around the fire pit, and taking the Malibu for spin, along with the obligatory ski run in less-than desirable conditions and freeeeeeeezing water. And then we were off, to sail into spring in Italy.

We left Berkeley East last October, resting on her laurels in Gaeta, Italy. Just two hours south of Rome, Gaeta is a convenient locale after the nine-hour flight across the Atlantic. As always, BE was right where we left her, but unfortunately she was not in the pristine condition that we left her in. Berkeley East’s engine was in pieces, and she was filthy; she looked like she had not been washed in months. Apparently, April showers in Gaeta bring sand, dust and mud rather than beautiful May flowers. Had we not experienced this phenomenon first-had in Sicily years ago, we might have thought the Italians were pulling our leg. Often referred to as rain dust, or mud rain, it is a common occurrence in the Western and Southern Mediterranean, where the dust supply comes from the atmospheric depressions going through the northern part of North Africa. Berkeley East has never gone to Africa, but little bits of Africa keep visiting Berkeley East.

While we could have used showers ourselves, we rolled up our sleeves and tried to scrub a layer of African dust from BE’s decks, only to discover that the water was nearly as dirty as the boat! We had four days to get Berkeley East ready to launch; we had our work cut out for us.

One great thing about Gaeta, is the close proximity of a nice little hotel to the boat yard. Just a short walk and we were checked into our room, ready to sleep. It seemed like only minutes had passed when we were awakened by music, but upon opening our eyes the sunlight was blinding, it was morning. We knew we must have been dreaming though, as we were we were in Italy and we were hearing the Star-Spangled Banner. Still lying in bed, instinctively, we put our hands over our hearts and sang the words to our country’s national anthem. Another familiar tune followed, the Italian national anthem. We wondered if it was a holiday, but as we peered outside, we saw the USS New York docked across the street, the Stars and Stripes flying proudly on her stern.

The USS New York is an amphibious transport dock with a crew of 360 that can carry up to 700 Marines. She is a very special ship, as nearly seven tons of steel used in her bow’s construction came from the rubble of the World Trade Center.

Gaeta has played a conspicuous part in military history; its fortifications date back to Roman times, and in 1967, a NATO base was established in here. At its peak, the base was home to 2,000 Americans and their families. Consolidation in 2005 reduced the number of Americans stationed in the town dramatically, and closed Gaeta’s only bowling alley, among other things. It is currently used as the home port for the flagship of the United States’ Sixth Fleet.

When we finally rallied enough to return to Berkeley East for the day’s boat work, the streets of Gaeta were full of young, polite, enthusiastic American military men and women, clearly pleased to be in Italy. And the Italians were equally as thrilled to have them here. We are happy to report that respect for the American flag, and the United States of America, are alive and well in Gaeta, Italy.

While we would have preferred to sit and talk with the sailors, we had bags to unpack, a boat to wax, batteries to replace, projects to complete, repairs to supervise. We spent the next four days pampering Berkeley East, from sunrise to sunset. We wondered if she would ever again become livable. On day four, we were ready (sort of), but BE’s engine was still in pieces, and we had our doubts that the she would make her date to go back in the water. “How can we launch without an engine?” we asked our Italian friends. “No problem” they replied.

Berkeley East has 9 large batteries that way almost 200 pounds each.We need to lift them with a halyard 15 feet into the air, then through a hatch and into position under the berths and cabin sole. A full day’s work.

And in the morning, in true Italian style, Berkeley East was a flutter of activity: mechanics onboard, travel lift in place, bottom paint being applied. We could not stop them, BE was going in the water with, or without, us. And she was going in the water with, or without, an engine.

And then, with a splash, Berkeley East was no longer a project, no longer a burden; she was once again our home.

Still without a working engine, BE was towed to the fuel dock where we filled her four tanks with diesel. One of the winter marina projects was to clean and polish all the fuel tanks and rid them of 11 years of build up.

We had never needed to fill all of the tanks from empty before, and about an hour later we found it difficult to catch our breath, not from the exhaustion of pumping the fuel, but from the shock of the bill for 1,000 liters of diesel. Whoever said, “buy a boat and the rest is free” was nuts.

PREVIOUS COMMENTS

08 May 2018 – Nigel

Great reading for us back here in the rainy UK. Keep up the entertaining blog please!