Reflections

Croatia

We hadn’t planned to go back Croatia this year, but after more than a month at the dock in Italy, we were ready for some anchor time. So we thought back on the time we had spent there, and selected some of our favorite spots to create a two-week cruising route south through Croatia, to Montenegro.

When we reflect upon our two previous trips to Croatia, we realize that we never really planned to spend much time there. In 2012, we were passing through quickly when we met a lovely English couple that shared their local knowledge of the country, and set us on a slow saunter through the islands. Then last year, we thought we might just check out the far north area of Croatia that we had missed previously, and two months later, we were still there.

One nice thing about going from Fano, Italy to Croatia is that it was a day trip, allowing us to shake out Berkeley East’s new sails. We always prefer to start simply after the winter months ashore so we can make sure everything on BE is working properly. And Mali Losinj was just 75 miles away. We threw off the dock lines at daybreak and left Italy behind, once again. And once again, we were Croatia bound.

In Croatia, a yacht must clear customs immediately upon entering the country. We know people who thought they had 24 hours and were fined 600 euros per person for not checking in right away. We clearly remember our first visit to Croatia in 2012 when we were refused entry because our insurance paper was not signed in blue ink. We were given two options, go away, or buy local insurance from Kovac, the custom official’s cousin. This year, all our papers were signed in blue ink.

The anchorage where it all started, on the island of Dugi Otak, is where we met Fi and Eddie, our Croatian guides. We went to Dugi, as we call it, in hopes of running into them again. No one had seen them yet, but we were able to catch up with friends from Sea Change and enjoy the national park, where there are no ferries or cruise lines, just some wild donkeys on the shore.

Over the years, we have made many, many, many stops in a quiet cove on the island of Klemet, where the water is crystal clear and the sky lights up at sunset. Hiking paths lead to restaurants, a marina and water taxis to the active island of Hvar. But this year, we just relaxed on Berkeley East, happy to be swinging free at anchor.

Part of reproducing our favorite times in Croatia has to do with food, as we were introduced to some of the best restaurants we have ever been to during our first season there. They are nothing fancy, just some tables by the sea. But the ingredients are about as fresh as they can get, the recipes are simple and tasty, and the experiences are magical. For us, a visit to Croatia is not complete without a stop in Loviste for Lobster Salad.

Mljet is one of our favorite, and one of the largest, Croatian Islands, a third of which is protected as a national park. It is unspoiled and beautiful. According to myth Ulysses was kept captive there for seven years. One of the highlights is the large saltwater lake where we hiked and flew the drone.

Another food oasis for us is the fish and meat restaurant on the harbor in Sipan. You can have fish, or you can have meat. They are both fabulous and as before, we just had to go twice to sample both.

Last stop in Croatia was Cavtat, pronounced “Tsavtar,” a picturesque harbor town lined with palm trees, restaurants and bars. Before checking out of the country to head for Montenegro, we sat on the shore and said farewell to Croatia, once again.

PREVIOUS COMMENTS

02 Jul 2017 – Linda

So lovely to read your words and enjoy your photos. My recent land trip there was no where near experiencing on a yacht. THANK YOU. all the best. Linda