Life After Cruising

Ecuador and Panama

It’s been a year since we sold Berkeley East and ended 15 years of cruising in the US, Caribbean, and Mediterranean Sea.  Yet people still ask:  What will you do now; what can possibly compare to “living the dream”?  It is a very good question, one that deserves answering, and we intend to search the possibilities for as long as it takes.

We spent the first months of our boat-free existence taking care of things neglected during our sailing years; knee, hip and back treatments, house remodeling, time on the lake with friends and family. Nothing as wild as crossing the Atlantic Ocean on Berkeley East, but each was very fulfilling in its own way.  We also began long-term commitments that were impossible while cruising; like growing vegetables, joining local clubs, and learning how to make a barrel of wine, things that will yield many years (and bottles) of enjoyment.  And all the while, during rehab, remodel, research, and reconnecting, we anxiously planned our first travel adventure, sans Berkeley East.  Not surprisingly, or perhaps, out of habit, our thoughts naturally veered towards places we had always dreamed of going to with BE.  The Galapagos Islands and Panama Canal have been on our radar since we took delivery of Berkeley East, it was the perfect first post-cruising excursion. 

Getting to the Galapagos Archipelago from Charlotte involves passing through mainland Ecuador, a small country straddling the equator on South America’s west coast.  We took advantage of the opportunity and chose to visit the city of Quito, the capital and largest city in the country, set in the Andes at an elevation of 9,350 feet making it the second-highest capital city in the world.  While we did not run any marathons there, the altitude was apparent.  We tapped the resources of a South American travel expert and attempted to see the best of Quito in two days.  It was challenging, but we are accustomed to rapid exploration from our time on Berkeley East.  While travel was often slow and leisurely with cruising, we made a practice to explore land quickly in the event weather, or conditions, dictated an unexpected move. 

Built in the 16^th century, Quito is known for its largely intact Spanish colonial center; it is the fourth World Cultural Heritage Site declared by UNESCO in 1978.  Our 48 hours in Quito took us through the beautiful old town, across the equator and back again, to monasteries, markets, and museums.  We learned about Ecuadorian traditions, dancing, hat making, weaving, and tasted the country’s delicacies. 

A major highlight was a visit to a family rose farm.  Ecuador is the third largest flower producer in the world, Quito’s specialty is roses.  Quito’s climate and elevation create the perfect environment for roses to thrive; they take more time to develop and produce longer stems that can’t be replicated anywhere else in the world.  It is estimated that over 500 different types of roses are grown in Ecuador, in nearly every color imaginable.  And when a preferred palette is not available, the roses are dyed to accommodate the need.

When our Quito cultural experiences were complete, we took a taxi, two airplanes, a van, a ferry, and a bus to Porto Aroya, where we boarded a tender that delivered us to what would be our home for the next week, the Aqua Mare, at anchor in the bay.  While there are more than 50 excursion boats in the Galapagos Islands, we chose the Aqua Mare simply because, after living on a 54-foot sailboat, we wanted to see if we would enjoy a 165-foot Super Yacht with four decks, seven suites, jacuzzi, 12 passengers, and crew of 16, including two naturalist guides.  Would we be able to adapt to not having to worry about the anchor dragging, charging the batteries, or changing the engine oil?  Could we tolerate the presentation of drinks, snacks, and towels upon every return from outings, the gourmet meals served three times each day, Sergio delivering wine, without our even asking?  The simple answer is, “yes”!

For many years, we talked of visiting the Galapagos Islands on Berkeley East.  But since touring the archipelago on the Aqua Mare, we feel the trip might have been too restrictive on a private boat.  The Galapagos ecosystem is so unique and delicate, the Ecuadorian government requires that visiting yachts take extreme measures to protect the environment, The process for permission typically takes eight weeks, and yachts are limited to 30 days in the area, which can prove problematic when dealing with weather challenges and ocean crossings.  Private yachts must also have a naturalist guide on board while touring, and the landing of tenders is strictly prohibited, meaning one person might sometimes miss the adventure.

In contrast, on the Aqua Mare we had no responsibilities at all, apart from being ready for activities, and meals, somewhat on time.  Nearly every moment of the journey was planned for us; it was like being at camp.  While guests could skip any excursion and remain on the ship, we were afraid we might miss something special, so we participated in everything.  It was both exhilarating, and exhausting. 

Aqua Mare and Berkeley East have similar systems, just on a different scale

	Berkeley East	Aqua Mare
Engine	125 HP	4,000 HP
Fuel	1,000 liters	128,000 liters
Water	1,000 liters	28,400 liters
Sails	1,400 sq’	None

The Galápagos Islands is a volcanic archipelago, located about 600 miles from the coast of Ecuador, consisting of 18 islands and more than 100 islets surrounded by a marine reserve. Created from centuries of volcanic eruptions, each island presents a different topography; from mountainous terrains, lava outcroppings, arid sectors covered in cacti, to white-sand beaches, coarse red coastlines, and turquoise waters. It is considered one of the world’s foremost destinations for wildlife viewing offering diverse plants and animals, many of which exist nowhere else in the world.  Charles Darwin visited the area in 1835, and his observation of Galápagos’ species later inspired his theory of evolution. 

The Galapagos Archipelago is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and complex ecosystem where two percent of the islands are dedicated for human use, the rest is held as a national park.  Our cruising path on the Aqua Mare made multiple stops on five islands and crossed the equator twice.  Land visits avoided the human population, in favor of more interesting locals like the blue-footed booby, giant land tortoises, sea turtles, flightless cormorants, frigates, sea lions, penguins, pelicans, iguanas, rays and reef sharks.  It was nesting season; there were newborns, and toddlers, and sea turtle sex, lots of turtle sex.

The Galápagos sea lions were everywhere, and they were very social. We saw them in all shapes and sizes, wet and dry, sun-bathing on sandy shores or rocks, or gliding through the surf.

The Galapagos Islands are named after the giant tortoises that inhabit the archipelago, (Galapágo is an old Spanish word for tortoise). These giant tortoises can live to be over 150 years old, with some growing to five feet in length and reaching upwards of 500 pounds.

Blue-footed boobies are easy to spot with distinctive large blue feet which play an important role in courtship. Females are thought to select males with brighter feet.

Sally Lightfoot crabs are coastal scavengers that inhabit the Galapagos Islands. They are brightly colored with red/orange shells, a sky blue belly, yellow face and pink eyes.

The first iguanas on the Galapagos faced barren black lava islands with few plants. They adapted to survive, learning to swim and developing sharp teeth and claws to eat seaweed from rocks in the sea. These marine iguanas can stay under water for up to 45 minutes. The Galapagos are also home to land iguanas (yellow and red in color), that don’t swim and live off the island plants.

The green sea turtles were breeding and nesting like crazy, not necessarily a pretty thing. They can weigh up to 500 lbs and reach four feet in length.

Frigatebirds, seagoing fliers with a six-foot wingspan, can stay aloft for weeks at a time. Unlike other seabirds, the frigatebird wings are not water-resistant. They have adapted to feeding without entering the water, by stealing food from other birds. During their courtship ritual males inflate their red chest in order to attract females.

We snorkeled daily with sharks, rays, sea turtles, iguanas, sea lions, penguins, tropical fish.

Time flew by.  And the Aqua Mare did not disappoint.  While we were apprehensive about being on a boat with 10 strangers, not to mention 16 crew, we were fortunate that our fellow passengers were wonderful, fun people, and the service of the Aqua Mare crew was exceptional. 

Leaving the Galapagos and the Aqua Mare was bittersweet, but more “life after cruising” awaited.  Just two short flights and we were in Panama.  In comparison, traveling the 960 nautical miles from the Galapagos to Panama City on Berkeley East would have taken roughly one week, nonstop, weather permitting. 

It was a bit of culture shock, after the tranquility of the Galapagos, to arrive in the hustle and bustle of Panama City.  Snorkelers and kayakers were replaced with cars, buses, cruise ships and high-rise buildings.  But we weren’t in Panama for the beauty, although it was quite stunning, we were there for the canal. 

We had always hoped to take Berkeley East through the Panama Canal.  Designated one of the seven wonders of the modern world, it is truly an engineering achievement.  A 51-mile artificial waterway, the canal connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Pacific Ocean, and divides North and South America. Locks at each end of the canal lift ships up to 85 feet above sea level to meet Gatun Lake on the Atlantic side and lowers them on the other end to the level of the Pacific Ocean. One of the largest and most difficult engineering projects ever undertaken, the Panama Canal greatly reduces the time for ships to travel between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, enabling them to avoid lengthy routes with hazardous conditions.

We covered the canal from the Atlantic to the Pacific, explored the old locks and new locks, enjoyed vistas from land and air, and learned about historic events, as well as present-day operations, with an up close and personal look at ships transiting through the locks.  More than 1000 feet of floating steel, guided by tugboats or trains, in some cases with just inches to spare side to side.  It was truly amazing.  And as we understood the shipping routes from Taiwan to the US, we realized that Berkeley East actually did transit the canal in 2006, when she was on a freighter being delivered to us in Florida.

In addition to immersing ourselves in the canal, we also spent time getting to know Panama City and the surrounding areas.  Beyond being one of the most important transportation centers in the world, it is the cosmopolitan capital and financial center of the country of Panama, a city of skyscrapers, urban neighborhoods, and revitalized historic district, encompassed by rainforest, where you can drive from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea in just one hour. 

So, there it is, the first chapter in our life after cruising.  While we miss Berkeley East and would not change a moment of those 15 years, we also have no regrets about moving on. With good health, friends, family, and a continuing desire to discover new activities, places, and adventures, we are still “living the dream”.