It All Started with a Glass of Wine

Tuscany, Italy

When we decided to sell Berkeley East and end our cruising life, we went to the beach and made a long list of “next best things” to do.  We tried to incorporate projects, activities and life experiences that would be fun, exciting, physically challenging, educational, interactive, character building, and memorable.
 
One action we took early on was to join a local wine group; we were already making our own wine and wanted to meet other oenophiles.  When we discovered an organization called Vine Society that creates events focused on “wine education, appreciation and sharing”, we thought it was the perfect complement to our quest for more knowledge about, and involvement in, the world of wine.

One evening, while attending a tasting with Vine Society, we were encouraged to join a small group of members on a special trip to explore the wine region of Tuscany.  After 15 years of traveling alone on a boat, it was a daunting idea. But since “learning to travel with groups” was one of our new goals, we took the leap. And, really, who can say no to Italy?

So right there, over a glass of wine, it all began.  A week in Tuscany, led to a bike trip in Burgundy, which required days to acclimate in Paris, then there was a gap week between the biking and Tuscany which obviously steered us to several days in Bordeaux, and if we were going to Italy, we thought we might as well see  bit of Switzerland.  A simple glass of vino with new friends became the catalyst for a 36-day, three-country extravaganza.

With the France portions of our lengthy escapade complete, we flew to Florence and found our way to the first Tuscany accommodation. We had heard the high accolades of past Vine Society trips and as we turned down the long entrance to a breathtakingly beautiful resort, that was created from a medieval village dating back to the year one thousand, we understood the profound praise.  It was unique, and impressive, to say the least.

We feel very fortunate to have the time and freedom to take extended vacations like this.  Some in our Vine Society group have jobs and responsibilities that only allow them one week away from home; we clearly recall those times, when our vacation days were few, and far between.  But, as we lounged by the hotel pool sipping Prosecco, anxiously awaiting the arrival of our fellow wine enthusiasts, we were happy not to be among the many of them with cancelled or delayed flights.

Once the group successfully navigated their way to Tuscany, our seven-day adventure commenced. We cannot think of a better way to begin than with a delicious Italian dinner and wine pairings, under a brilliant Tuscan moon. And as the meal morfed into cocktails in the bar, with stories and lots of laughter, we were not only impressed by the stamina of our fellow travelers after their long journey, but any apprehensions we had about traveling with groups, at least with this group, faded away. 

While we had read the detailed itinerary for this Tuscany event, even had a Zoom “meet and greet” with all the planners and participants, we still weren’t exactly sure what to expect.  But for us, unknown elements are often the most exciting. 

To quote one of our winemaking mentors, “You can’t drink wine all day unless you start in the morning”.  So, as darkness turned to light, we boarded a large bus to begin our exploration, and education, of Tuscany.  Although there were just 14 of us, our spacious transport allowed room for quiet conversations, group discussions, naps, music, and even the occasional dance.

The region of Tuscany is located in central Italy covering some 8,900 square miles from the Tyrrhenian coast to the Apennine Mountains.  It is known for rolling hills, medieval towns, Renaissance art and architecture, and of course, wine.  More than half of the land is planted in Sangiovese grapes, which sounds boring, but Tuscany encompasses multiple elevations and climatic conditions with many different types of soils, the diversity resulting in a range of exceptional wine varietals.   Historically, Tuscany is famous for its production of Chianti Classico, while modern times have brought additional recognition for other significant red wines like Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino, and the famed Super Tuscans. 

One might think that seven days of visiting wineries could become very tiresome, but this experience was much more than sampling the juice. Every winery has a history, every winemaker has a dream, every wine has a story; every bottle provides a lens into the environment, styles and passions of that particular time.  And each vineyard visit was a focused, customized event to help immerse our group into the important wine region of Tuscany. 

As we travelled between wineries, our Tuscany expert tutored us on the past and present of one of the most visited areas in the world. Add beautiful views of the countryside, time in famous towns and villages, stops at castles and abbeys, gourmet meals, a cooking class, a truffle hunt, even breaks for shopping, swimming and relaxation; it was an exceptionally balanced escape.   

In total, we investigated nine different producers.  From the “Father of Chianti”, to the “Founder of Brunello di Montalcino”.  We saw the world’s densest vineyard specializing in biodynamic viticulture, a winery housed in a 1,000-year-old castle, a historic winery run by women, and one that plays music in vines.  Not to mention visits to two impressive facilities belonging to a family that has been making wine for more than six centuries.  The variety and contrasts were amazing.

Villa Sant’Anna estate in Montepulciano dates back to the 1800s.  Today, an all-female team, led by Simona Fabroni, continue the family tradition of making prestigious Tuscan wines.  Our group was treated to a lunch and wine and olive oil tasting with Simona, who shared her stories in both English and Italian.

Ricasoli Castello di Brolio encompasses nearly 3,000 acres, including some 600 acres of vineyards and 64 acres of olive groves, with Brolio Castle casting a watchful shadow over the property.  The first stones of the castle date back to the Middle Ages, and in 1872, Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the father of Chianti Classico, penned the recipe for Chianti wine.  The Ricasoli family were among the first to dedicate themselves to the improvement of agriculture and vineyards. 

Il Paradiso di Frassina is an ancient medieval farm from the 11th century where the Cignozzi family are using music to study the beneficial effects of sound waves on the vines.  Mozart is played in the vineyard through hundreds of BOSE speakers, helping to produce a unique Brunello di Montalcino wine.

Biondi-Santi is a beautiful property where Brunello di Montalcino was created.  Currently in its seventh generation of winemakers, they continue the tradition, making some of the most prestigious wines in Tuscany. 

Tenuta La Braccesca creates wines of two very different styles, the traditional Nobile di Montepulciano and the emerging Syrah of Cortona.  An interesting fact is that everyone in our group bought wines from this producer; it seems they make something for everyone.

Antinori nel Chianti Classico represents a milestone in the history of 26 generations of the Antinori family. For the first time, the Antinoris inaugurated a new, very modern, nearly invisible winery designed to have a low environmental impact and maximum energy savings while producing award-winning wines that the family is famous for.   

Podere di Ripi is the personal project of Francesco Illy (of Illy Coffee fame) and the world’s densest vineyard experiment in biodynamic viticulture.

Castello di Nipozzano, housed in a 1,000-year-old castle, is owned by the Frescobaldi family, who have been making wine in Tuscany for more than 700 years. 

With 20 distinct wine regions and some 1,800 grape varietals, the wines of Italy can be complex, confusing, and completely overwhelming.  And as much as we are fascinated by the science and technical details of wine creation, our trip to Tuscany reminded us that there is much more to this incredibly smooth and yummy libation.  In Italy, wine is an everyday essential, served with food, enjoyed but typically not evaluated over the meal. For Italians, wine is not the subject, but rather a vessel to help bring people together, create conversation, interaction, and memories; much like this Vine Society experience.

As we stood under cover, the rain pouring down on our last morning in Tuscany, we felt very fortunate that the weather had been so good during our time in this wonderful area.  Three vans sat waiting while we all said our goodbyes, some heading home, others carrying on for more discovery.  Long hugs all around (as if we might not ever see each other again) made us laugh because most of us did, after all, live just a few miles apart. 

We hopped in our car, set for a few days in Florence, and spent the 20-minute drive discussing the possibility of joining next year’s Vine Society trip to Argentina. It was, again, a crazy idea.  We have been to Argentina before; but not to learn about the wine.  We typically don’t plan that far ahead; but we probably could if we tried.  We really aren’t group travelers; then again, perhaps we are.  We decided that we would talk about it later, over a glass of wine.