Island hopping

Aeolian Islands, Italy

We left the Caribbean seven years ago, in part, because we were tired of islands. There’s only so much cobalt blue water and white sandy beaches that one can take. We wanted more to do on land, more culture, more history, so we sailed Berkeley East across the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, leaving the beautiful little atolls behind. Or so we thought.

Who knew that there were so many islands in the Med? Italy alone has more than 80 islands, plus thousands of miles of fabulous mainland coast, large cities, charming villages, wineries, gondolas, Ferraris and more. When we need a break from seeing the sights, we escape to the islands, the Italian islands. It’s the perfect combination.

We had just returned to Sicily after a trip home, and were anxious to get Berkeley East out of the marina and swinging on her anchor. It was hot, hot, hot, and we wanted a nice breeze, cool water to swim, some peace and quiet. Our nearest option was Vulcano, the closest Aeolian Island.

The Aeolians Islands, an archipelago of seven volcanoes (most extinct), sit just northeast of Sicily. Volcanic activity far below the surface of the sea has created a geological legacy in the unusual cone-shaped islands of Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Filicudi and Alicudi. Each has its own distinct landscape, character and atmosphere.

How to keep people away from your beach hut – paint on the rocks “Attenti Viperes” or roughly translated “Careful snakes”

Making sundried tomatoes in Salina

We cruised quickly through the Aeolians six years ago, in August, and vowed to return again for further exploration. But when we found ourselves there again in August, we questioned our logic. August is a unique month in Italy, actually in all of Europe, as many companies and businesses close and much of the population goes on holiday. In Italy, the Italians go on boating holidays, a lot of them in the Aeolian Islands, where the few year-round residents cope with an insurgence of thousands of visitors to their tiny hamlets.

The height and sheer drop offs of these volcanic islands offers little shelter for boats, so everyone crowds into the few shallow anchorages there are, creating a chaotic environment that only the Italians can make fun.

We decided to make the most of it; go to less popular anchorages when we could and tough it out with the masses when weather allowed nothing else.

Buddy boating with Doug and Lynne on Sea Change. Overlooking our boats at anchor in Lipari

While there were moments of madness, we managed to enjoy two knuckle-biting weeks of island hopping in some of the most unique islands in the Med.

PREVIOUS COMMENTS

05 Sep 2017 – Lorrie Amezquita

As always, your pictures are beautiful and posts are enjoyable to read. I LOVED the ‘big rubber ducky.’ Thanks for sharing your adventures.