Multiple Ways to Fall

Iguazu National Park, Brazil and Argentina

Every year, we have extensive physical and mental exams to prove how fantastically we are aging. This year, our doctor added a balance test to rate our risk of falling.  Given the fact that neither of us have ever fallen, except for the occasional tumble while waterskiing, we were confident in our stability.  But like every good doctor, ours believes there is always room for improvement.  Armed with her recommendations, we headed home, tossed all the information in the trash and caught a flight to Brazil, where we set out to prove our poise by navigating the magnificent falls of Iguazu.

Our decision to visit Iguazu Falls grew from the desire to expand a planned trip to Argentina, where we were embarking on a two-week wine adventure with our North Carolina wine group. We had been to Brazil before but never to the falls, it was a simple addition.  But what evolved during our trip-planning session was a complicated 34-day itinerary that included parts of Brazil, Antarctica, Argentina, and Chile.  These month-long trips seemed to be becoming a common occurrence.

While getting to Brazil was a lengthy process, the clock difference was just two hours, thus acclimating to local time was quite easy.  So, after three flights encompassing some 24 hours, we hit the ground running in Iguazu. We had three days to explore the famous falls from every aspect, three days to prove we were sure footed.

Iguazu Falls are waterfalls of the Iguazu River on the northeast border of Argentina and the southern border of Brazil.  In the native Guarani language, its name means “big water”, a fitting description for the largest waterfall system in the world.   Iguazu Falls is twice as tall as Niagara Falls and three times as wide, comprising 275 individual waterfalls reaching a height of 330 feet and spanning some two miles in length.  The falls are situated in two national parks, one in Brazil and one in Argentina, which together incorporate more than 252,000 hectares of protected land.

We chose to stay at the hotel located inside the national park on the Brazil side, so while the crowds were thick during park hours, we had full access to the trails and the falls before and after everyone else.  The panorama from the hotel was amazing, but the hiking path through the park offered constant views of the raging waterfalls.   After a quick nap, we ventured out to a nearly deserted park and began our up close, personal and very damp experience with the famous chutes.

We had seen many waterfalls before, in Yosemite, Hawaii, Croatia, Australia, so our expectations were measured.  Nothing could have prepared us for the sheer beauty and power of the massive cliffs of water.  It was more gorgeous than we ever imagined. 

Nearly every moment of our time in Iguazu was planned.  Early the next morning, we boarded a helicopter for a birds-eye view of the immense cascades of water surrounded by jungle.  It was a quick ride, but an impressive one. 

After landing our chopper, we cruised down to the river to meet the rapids at water level.  We had witnessed boats being maneuvered under the falls for a complete drenching of the passengers, so we opted for the “lighter spray” experience.  Little did we know that there was no such thing.  But the unexpected soaking was a welcome respite from the 100-degree heat.

A bit more exploring in the Brazil park, with a stop at Parque das Aves, a shelter and sanctuary for more than 1300 birds of some 143 species. 

And we wrapped the day with champagne and canapes at sunset in the hotel tower. Another captivating sight.

While the Iguazu Falls sit on the border of Brazil and Argentina, you must travel by car from one side to the other, a 20-minute drive that can sometimes take hours depending on the traffic at Argentina Immigration.  We spent our last day at Iguazu exploring the Argentina side, which sports six different circuits for inspecting the falls, including the infamous Devil’s Throat.

Devil’s Throat is a huge u-shaped waterfall surrounded by towering cliffs that create a natural amphitheater.  An avalanche of water crashes into the narrow gorge with a booming roar, dousing all who stand nearby.  At 492-feet tall and 292-feet wide, it is the largest and most formidable waterfall within the Iguazu Falls system. And, an impressive conclusion of our waterfall adventure.

In the end, we had seen the falls from every perspective: the direct panorama, a glimpse every morning from our room, the sunset view from the hotel tower, from the trails above and trails below the rapids, from the air, from the river, from the Brazil side, and the Argentina side.  They were magnificent, and surprisingly unique at every angle.  And after tens of thousands of steps, on dirt trails, across wet catwalks, up and down stairs, boarding helicopters and boats, we can honestly say that the only spill that occurred was a drink in the bar.