Opatija, the Croatian Riviera
Opatija, Croatia We had just come off some rough weather with exciting maneuvers, so motoring north in flat seas...
As we were leaving Bermuda, about six weeks ago, I did a blog update entitled “Will She or Won’t She?” As I said then, I did not want to sail across the Atlantic Ocean. Why would I want to spend, what could be 15+ days on a small boat, either bored or terrified, when I could fly across sipping Champagne while watching the latest airline movie release? As they say, “Nothing goes to weather like a 747”. But as my last blog entry stated, I finally decided that I could not send Larry off to sea with unknown crew. So with great reservation, and a very heavy heart, I went.
When I first heard that the ARC Europe Rally start in Bermuda was going to be inside the harbor, I thought they were crazy. The idea of 25 boats sailing across the start line and then somehow squeezing through the small cut in the reef out into the Atlantic was well, crazy! Lylle, from ARC Europe explained that it would make great photos and the locals would love it. He was right. It was fantastic. What a beginning. Somehow we all got through the cut without incident, three boats across in some places, what fun. I thought then that I wanted to quit cruising and take up racing. But as we sailed away and the boats got further and further apart, I saw Bermuda disappear into the distance and I said “take me back”.
The next 10 days were, as I suspected, either boring or scary. I can now also add “miserable” to my descriptive words for long passages. While crossing the Atlantic from west to east is always a challenge, this was an especially difficult year. For the better part of the trip, the wind and seas made life very uncomfortable. Every morning, when I awoke for the 6:00 a.m. watch, I said to myself “never again”.
So here I am, 3500 miles and nearly two months later, in Lagos Portugal. I’ve sailed across the Atlantic Ocean. What do I think now? I am actually glad that I did it, for several reasons:
• First, I was right to have reservations about unknown crew. We have now learned a lot about choosing people to join us on long passages. We have learned that impressive sailing resumes are not always accurate, and good references cannot replace a face-to-face meeting and test sail. We have learned that anyone who resists a meeting probably does not meet our basic criteria for a good crew member, which is someone who is physically capable, and mentally eager, to participate in all aspects of the voyage. Luckily, one of the two crew who came with us, did meet that criteria.
• Second, the ARC Europe Rally was a wonderful experience. We have participated in boat rallies before, but this one was very different. Unlike other rallies, where we moved the boat from point A to point B, on this one we stopped, relaxed, toured and partied. Between the passages, it was like a vacation. It took the edge off the bad bits and brought a whole new perspective to a long ocean passage. It was great having friends ready to catch our lines when we came into the different ports. ARC Europe did an excellent job planning and executing activities. We met some fabulous people from all over the world. And we got to see some areas that we have never seen before, and probably would never have traveled to otherwise.
• Third, I have a great sense of accomplishment to have completed such a huge task. Since it was never important to me to make the crossing, I am very surprised at the pride I feel now, having done it. Once I decided to go, I jumped in and worked as hard as I could to help make the passage successful, and I feel that my being on board did make a difference. Has it changed how I feel about long passages? No, not at all. They are still sometimes boring, scary and miserable, but now that this one is over, I am happy to have suffered through it. Throughout the passage, I kept thinking that I could be doing something much more productive with my time. Now I see it as a time I will never forget.
Today, someone asked me if I was ready for another big passage. My response was “never again”. Luckily, I don’t have to even think about that for a long time, as we plan to stay in the Med for several years. Right now, I’d just like a little credit for the passage that I just did”.
Previous Comment
Congratulations Mary, and to your great skipper too. What an accomplishment, you deserve all the credit for making the journey. Now enjoy the destination.