We had to laugh when we saw the two ducks swimming by Berkeley East, we thought it must be a sign. The night before, we had been discussing a paradox (which one of us insisted on pronouncing as a “pair-of-ducks”). By definition, a paradox is, “a seemingly absurd statement or proposition which, when investigated, may prove to be well founded or true.” This was the case when one of us (the same one with the pronunciation challenge), suggested that we could go back to Santa Margherita and enjoy the same Italian town that we fell in love with in 2011. The other one of us replied, “Are you crazy? It has probably grown, and changed so much that we will hate it. Why spoil the beautiful memory?” It was a real conundrum, such a difficult question. Can one, should one, go back?
While we have returned to many places in Italy, few held as special a place in our hearts as Santa Margherita Ligure. We truly felt we could live in this seaside town. Located in the middle of the Italian Riviera, next door to the famed Portofino, Santa Margherita was a cross between an old fishing village and a stylish Italian city. It was a resort town with a local feel. Large enough to absorb the tourists, small enough to make you feel at home. We yearned for that atmosphere, if it still existed in Santa Margherita.
We approached the harbor in a squall and called for a berth, only to find that the docks were full. We were already questioning our decision to return. The rain persisted and the wind built as we tried to set BE’s hook in the small port, the anchor resisting our efforts. Our fear of disappointment grew.
But as the clouds parted, the sun peeked through and there it was, our Santa Margherita Ligure, like a fine watercolor, picture perfect. We could see the palm fronds waving to us on the esplanade, calling us in.
We spent several days strolling through the streets, examining the daily catch on display, watching children play on the beach, sitting with locals in colorful restaurants, and participating in the evening passeggiata along the promenade. It was as if time had stood still, like we had never left.
We pretended that we lived in Santa Margherita Liguere, and enjoyed the 2.5-mile walk along the water to her much more famous neighbor Portofino, a path lined with classic villas and endless views of the sea.
Portofino is a fishing village turned holiday resort that is one of the most visited towns in Italy. Cruise ships anchor off; super yachts fill the tiny harbor. High-end boutiques and pricey seafood restaurants line the piazza. Some might find it too touristy, but once above the charming port, Portofino still makes us smile.
Once again, we decided that if we had to live in Italy, we could certainly find a way to be happy in lovely Santa Margherita Ligure.
