Cruising to the End of the World

Argentina and Antartica

Nearly every sailor dreams of conquering the world’s most infamous routes.  Passages that challenge skills, test nerves, stress even the soundest of vessels.  Waterways like the Bering Sea, Cape Horn, and the notorious Drake Passage.  So, when we found ourselves traveling to South America for waterfalls and wine, we decided it was time to take on the treturous sea leading to one of our great traveling goals, the seventh continent, Antarctica. 

We began in Ushuaia Argentina, a town on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago at the southernmost tip of South America.  The last settlement and gateway to Antarctica (The End of the World), Ushuaia is a rough and tumble hamlet where the Andes fall into the Beagle Channel.  People visit Ushuaia for hiking, skiing, exploring, but most often, like us, to board a ship bound for the white continent. 

While we never really planned to take Berkeley East across the Drake Passage, it is hard not to imagine what an incredible experience that might have been.  Sailing through one of world’s most unforgiving bodies of water to a land so remote and demanding.  The trip planning alone is extreme.  In addition to being ready for the major weather issues, multiple levels of preparedness and authorization are required for a private yacht to legally transit to Antarctica, so very few do.  The Antarctic is unique because the continent is a protected natural reserve that is regulated through the Antarctic Treaty System (comprised of 50 member countries) to ensure that Antarctica is used exclusively for peaceful purposes and scientific research; thrill-seeking tourists are discouraged.

After a few days seeing the surrounds of Ushuaia via a four-wheel drive excursion and catamaran spin through the Beagle Channel, we boarded our expedition ship, the Greg Mortimer.  Named after the famed Australian mountain climber, the Greg Mortimer is a 341-foot purpose-built vessel of world-class polar standards.  At more than six times the length of Berkeley East, it seemed huge, but it is actually one of the smaller ships among those that cruise to Antarctica.  We chose the Mortimer for both safety and practicality.  Its size allows for manuevering into more remote areas, while its state-of-the-art design can pierce through waves and ice fields in greater comfort. And the Mortimer’s schedule just happened to work well with the other legs of our South American exploits. 

We were surprised by the style and luxury of the ship’s interior.  With spacious gathering places, workout facilities, saunas, jacuzzis and modern cabins featuring picture windows and balconys, it was impressive.  Before setting sail, there were introductions to the the ship’s crew, gear assignments, and safety drills for the 90 travelers with whom we would spend the next 14 days crossing the Drake Passage and exploring Antarctica. 

The Drake Passage is the body of water that separates the southern tip of South America (Cape Horn) and the South Shetland Islands in Antarctica.  It can be shockingly rough due to westerly winds, the pressence of the most powerful ocean current on earth (the Antarctic Circumpolar Current), and the collision of cold and warm water masses, which combine to create dangerous weather conditions including huge waves and violent storms. In addition, large icebergs often drift into the passage, adding another layer of risk. It is a solitary,  threatening sea crossing believed to be home to more than 800 shipwrecks, with an estimated 20,000 sailors lost at sea. 

But advances in polar-ready ship construction, equipment, safety procedures, experienced crew and expert weather forecasts have made the journey more predictable.  That said, it is an area where conditions change rapidly, and unexpectedly.  One never knows if you will experience the “Drake Shake”, or the “Drake Lake”.  As we stood at the bow of the Greg Mortimer, moving slowly out of the Beagle Channel, we wondered what the Drake Passage had in store for us. 

The first night of our crossing to Antarctica was relatively calm.  Dinner was served  at large tables where passengers and members of the Mortimer’s expedition team could get acquainted; everyone was anxious and excited about what lie ahead.  After a good nights sleep, we awoke to a PA announcement that breakfast was being served, followed by an introduction to Antarctica in the lecture hall.  We would come to find out that every day there were activities focused on deepening the understanding of the region. 

All Greg Mortimer voyages have naturalists and local specialists on board (ours also carried a whale research team) who give presentations covering topics ranging from wildlife, rocks, biology, climate change, history, personal experiences and achievements; all aimed to educate, engage and entertain, which they did. 

Antarctica is located at the bottom of the world and includes the South Pole, the furthest reachable point on the planets surface.   It is the highest, driest, coldest and windiest continent on Earth, encompassing some 5.5 million square miles with ice covering roughly 98% of of the continent, which equates to 90% of the earth’s ice.  The basic facts about the continent are fascinating. 

The rules and regulations for ships visiting Antarctica are extremely strict.  All gear that might touch the land was inspected to prevent the introduction of foreign matter.  Only 100 people were allowed on land at any one time, which is why larger ships with more passengers are limiting. We were briefed about acceptable behavior: how to embark and disembark the ship, zodiac travel, water landings, where to walk, when to sit, required distance from wildlife.  We even had to purchase special insurance that would cover evacuation given there was no hospital available.  While some might consider the demands extreme, we came to understand how important they are in order to keep the people, and this amazing continent, safe. 

Night two of the Drake Passage brought 50+ mph winds, snow and 20-foot seas.  The Greg Mortimer pitched and rolled making just walking about the ship extrememly challenging.  Fortunately, neither of us gets seasick, and we are pretty adept at moving about a rocking vessel, with one hand always attached firming to the ship.  But a large number of our fellow expeditioners were miserable, choosing to stay in their beds to ride out the rough conditions, or visiting the ship’s doctor for medical relief.  While we never felt at risk, it was an uncomfortable bit of the voyage.  But what followed was worth every moment of suffering.

Nothing could have prepared us for the first time we looked out the window and saw an iceburg so close we could have touched it.  Or when the first ice field came into view.  We were giddy with our first landing on the seventh continent.  We never imagined standing on floating ice, or walking on an active volcano in the middle of nowhere.  Crystal clear water.   Air free of pollution.  Birds, whales, elephant seals, sea lions, penguins, penguins, and more penguins. 

During our five days in Antarctica, we made multiple landings each day, and toured in zodiacs when landings weren’t feasible, the crew and itinerary always flexible to the conditions.  There was kayaking, snorkeling and polar plunges for those willing to brave the below-freezing water temperatures.  There was afternoon tea and waffles, evening happy hours, Antarctic trivia, even brisk outdoor parties.  There was no time to be bored on the Greg Mortimer. 

As our days in Antarctica came to an end, weather dictated a slightly earlier than planned departure; there was a storm system moving into the Drake Passage that the captain wanted to avoid.  It is the risk one takes when planning to visit the white continent.  There are even times when ships cannot venture out to sea at all due to untenable conditions, their passengers departing Ushuaia in disappointment. Given our cruising past, we still had weather apps on our phones, and as we checked the forecast, we knew that the decision to move on was a good one.  While the seas were quite rough during our return, we crossed back to Ushuaia without incident. 

With the Greg Mortimer docked safely, we spent our last afternoon enjoying the luxuries that the ship had to offer.  The weather was perfect for relaxing outdoors; we were happy to put away the thermal layers and waterproof gear.  In the end, we were very pleased with the trip, our accomplishment of crossing the Drake and examining a bit of Antarctica.  And while we reached our goal of touching foot on the seventh continent, the continent touched us in ways that we didn’t expect.  How many penguins, seals, iceburgs could you see?  We are certain that there is no other place like it on earth.