Back In The Saddle

France –

Long before we went cruising, before we moved to Lake Norman, before we tried our hand at winemaking (or even wine drinking), we were avid mountain bikers.  Every weekend, we rode the local trails in Southern California.  And what little vacation time we had was often spent exploring the backroads of Big Bear, Mammoth Mountain, Lake Tahoe, Yosemite. We invested in high-tech, full-suspension bikes for a fast, comfortable ride.  We fitted our cars with roof racks that carried our wheels, as well as those of our cycling buddies. 

Our passion continued in more exotic locales like Hawaii, New Zealand, Bali, and Australia. We decided that peddling alongside kangaroos Down Under was more fun than worrying about outrunning mountain lions in the hills of Malibu.  

When we moved to North Carolina, our trusty fat tires came along, helping us discover surrounding parks, the Blue Ridge Mountains, and paths in South Carolina and Virginia.  We even had folding bikes on Berkeley East and would take them to shore at every opportunity. 

While we don’t ride the rough, rocky bits anymore, we still have the urge to spin, so when we began searching for something new to do in France, a bike trip crossed our minds.  We called our old mountain biking pals, and a six-day trek through the towns, hills and vineyards of Burgundy began to take shape.

We decided to spend a few days in Paris to adjust to the time difference before hopping in the saddle.  Chris and Donna traveled from Los Angeles, and we met up for some famed Parisian activities. 

Because we had been to Paris before, we could relax and enjoy the beautiful city without running around like crazy tourists.  We celebrated our 25^th wedding anniversary there and as we were very close to our 45^th anniversary, we booked the same hotel and got a room with the same view. 

Although the weather was cold, windy, and rainy, we made the best of our time with a few outings, nice meals, and intermittent naps.  When the time came to catch the train to our biking starting point, Dijon, we were rested and energized for the new adventure. 

There are many tour groups that specialize in two-wheel vacations, and after much research, we selected Backroads, a company that designs journeys, complemented by elegant hotels, along with world-class culinary and cultural experiences.  While the idea of riding through the quaint villages and famed vineyards of Burgundy was appealing, we also wanted to learn about the amazing food, wines, and history of this iconic region, so a program with variety was preferred.  

Our decision to ride with Backroads was based not only on their reputation, but the quality equipment, guidance and support they provide.  There were two trip leaders, one assistant, and two vans carrying everything that might be needed along the way, from new tires, extra batteries, even allergy medicine. While enjoyment was the goal, safety and comfort were paramount.

Because we aren’t as young as we once were, we chose to try the e-bike option which allowed us to travel under our own power or tap a little boost when needed.  We all had a bit of apprehension about riding through unknown territory with unfamiliar equipment; we had heard many horror stories of accidents with electric gear.  But as it turned out, traveling with e-assist is well, just like riding a bike!

The group was small, only 10 people, all in similar age brackets.  Half were serious riders on performance bikes, the other half were much happier people with the e-assist option.  While we tried to challenge ourselves by turning off the electric feature, we quickly learned that the added weight of the bike’s construction and battery was like carrying 20 extra pounds of dead weight up the hills.  With four modes, Eco, Tour, Sport and Turbo, we could reserve battery power and just cruise, taking in the beautiful countryside.   Or we could kick it into high gear and watch the world fly by doing about 20 mph.

Every morning, we would rise early for a briefing on the day’s riding possibilities.  Typically, there would be a morning course, as well as an afternoon track, and a stop for lunch at a private farmhouse or local restaurant.   One could choose to do as much, or as little, as desired.  And while cycling was the focus, there were several group outings to historical sites, and wineries.  Evenings were spent getting to know fellow riders over delicious meals.

We knew little about Burgundy, but for its reputation for world-class wines.  And while the vineyards and wine are central to modern day life, there is rich history in Burgundy’s ancient villages, medieval chateaus, and intricate canal network. 

Our cycling itinerary took us through some of the most picturesque hamlets in France, past famous vineyards on the Route de Grands Crus, along canals, within forests and farmlands.  We even got a feel for riding the route of a stage of the Tour de France.

We were guided by GPS units mounted on our handlebars that beeped whenever we missed a turn, which happened quite often.  One of our fellow riders had done a Backroads tour back in the day when paper maps were used; we couldn’t imagine reading, and flipping pages, while peddling. 

Although we joked about being able to hop in the support van whenever we wanted, we persevered for the six days, without too much pain, and no injuries.  We averaged 30 plus miles each day, with a max day of 48 miles and 3,000 feet of elevation, called “The Wall”.  Total for the six days was just under 200 miles.  And although we did use the electric assist, we take pride in the fact that we never depleted the battery life by more than half. 

It was a fantastic way to see Burgundy and a great start to a 36-day, three-country excursion.