Off the grid
Dalmatia, Croatia When moving Berkeley East from one country to another, there is always a period during which we...
We left Little Farmer’s Cay expecting the worst in waves through the cut, so we battened down the full enclosure and put on our harnesses, but were surprised to find seas as calm as a lake. Outside the cut, conditions were good, small waves and nice wind. We were on our way to Wardrick Wells, part of Exuma Land and Sea Park, where everything is protected and it seems as though the conch come out of their shells and lobster stand up and wave because they know they will not end up on your dinner plate. Luckily, we caught a nice Mahi before entering the park, so dinner was already set. We had been inside the Wardrick Wells anchorage last year, but were told that because of unusually low tides this year and Berkeley East’s deep draft, we would have to take an outside mooring. We were disappointed at first but soon discovered a completely new and beautiful view on the outside.
We spent several days here kayaking, snorkeling, swimming and hanging on the beach. This is the perfect place for all those things.
On one snorkeling outing we found ourselves surrounded by seven large Eagle Rays. It was one of the most amazing dives we have ever had, a first for us to be swimming so close to these beautiful creatures.
On another snorkel trip we found lobsters roaming around in the middle of the day. Huge aggressive lobsters that fought with each other and us, trying to grab the underwater camera with their antenna. Lobsters typically hide under rocks and only venture out at night. We’ve never seen anything like it before.
As remote as this island is, there was also some socializing when the park rangers arranged a happy hour on a beach for all the cruisers in the anchorage. Most were people from Florida who come to the Bahamas for two or three months every year. When we told them where we had been they looked at us oddly as if to ask why go so far when this perfect place is here? And after our time in Wardrick Wells, we thought that maybe they are right. Wardrick Wells is the perfect place. If only we could build a house here. Perhaps after we are done cruising around on Berkeley East and after we have tried our hand at winemaking in New Zealand, we will get a smaller boat, a condo in Florida and spend three months a year in these beautiful Bahama Islands.
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So, did you lunch on any of those lobsters? Your pictures are fabulous – I think you lifted them from a National geographic coffee table book!!!!