Free Again!

Gozo Malta

Marinas are nice. There is a bit of comfort having Berkeley East tied to a dock. And it is convenient. BE is plugged into electricity so you can use a hairdryer, washer or microwave without running the generator. Showers can be longer, and warmer, with dock water at your disposal. It’s also easier to go shopping, eat out, or see the sights. You just step off the boat. No need to pump up the dingy and brave the elements just to see how good the gelato is. But after a few days, marinas gets small, no matter how large or nice they are. So when BE’s engine was ready to run, we were ready to go.

We threw off the dock lines with the plan to make a quick stop for fuel then go out to anchor at Comino, another of the Maltese islands. What was that best-laid plans saying again? Grand Harbor does not have a traditional fuel dock. You tie up to the high concrete wall on the super yacht dock and the fuel is brought in by truck. We had about 70 feet to dock Berkeley East and given that she is only 54 feet, it was fairly simple. Getting off the dock was another story. The wind was blowing us on the dock, the two super yachts fore and aft of us had long lines tied far into our space and the wall was so high that our anchor would hit if we tried to spring off. We went forward and back, to and fro, no luck – we were stuck. We figured we’d have to wait for one of the larger yachts to leave, until one of the crew on the yacht in front offered to walk us around as we pulled BE’s bow forward completely over the stern of their boat. It worked and we were free again.

Comino is a very small island named after the cumin seed that once flourished in the Maltese islands. There is a permanent population of only four residents. It is an environment of tranquility and isolation except from 10 am to 6 pm in the Blue Lagoon. The Blue Lagoon is a beautiful bay with Caribbean blue water. We arrived around 4 pm to find large gulets, small speedboats and a tiny beach full of tourists.

We anchored hoping they would be gone soon, when the charter sailboats converged, anchoring close, putting out no scope and leaving their boats unattended. The scene was complete and we felt right at home, like we were back in the BVI (British Virgin Islands). Luckily, at 6 pm everyone began to leave and we were left with three boats, including BE. The other two were boats that wintered with Berkeley East in Sicily. It was quiet and peaceful, beautiful, and well worth waiting for the tour boats to leave. We got up early, walked on land and took the dingy around enjoying this little piece of paradise, until 10 am when they all came back for another day…and we were off to Gozo.

Gozo is another small island of the Maltese archipelago. It has a rugged coastline delineated by sheer limestone cliffs and dotted with deep caves. We stopped in Dwejra, a nearly circular bay with high cliffs giving an amphitheater feeling.

The water was clear, deep and cold, but we swam anyway. We were free. The days were filled with books, music, lounging and swimming.

There was no boat work, finally. It was like we were the only people for miles (along with a few on the other two boats in the bay). Little did we know that just over the hill was a wild and crazy place where people came to scuba dive in the Blue Hole and marvel at the beauty of the Azure Window.

When we went on land to snap a few pics, we could not believe out eyes, there were buses, cars, people everywhere. It was like Disneyland. But we quickly became aware of why everyone was there. It was gorgeous.

We joined in the fun for a bit then went back our nearly private oasis on Berkeley East.